The Hwy 95 Journeys
What happened on the way to my Spring Fast on the Blood Reserve where the Blackfoot Tribe lives in southern Alberta, Canada as I drove through Idaho in the Northwestern United States.
The fastest route to Alberta is Highway 95. I have traveled this road many times and these are a few of the experiences I have had along the way.
First Trip:
In April of 2002 I was traveling north on Highway 95 through the Upper Panhandle of Idaho toward Canada. After I crossed the border into British Columbia on my way to Alberta and drove about 20 km, I noticed on the left-hand side of the road across from a truck stop a bunch of pink flamingos. They were the grassy green type of pink flamingo, the kind you stick in your lawn, not the live Florida types. That was odd and even weirder how my neck snapped around like an owl to notice these pink flamingos and this little tiny store. I was on my way to the Blood Reserve of southern Alberta for a ceremony with the Blackfoot Tribe. “Reserves” are the Canadian equivalent of US Native American reservations.
My first fast was coming up. It’s a four-day ceremony of no water or food with five sweat lodges in preparation to Sundance the following summer. I then spent another seven hours driving from the little pink flamingo store wondering why it just jumped out at me. Once I arrived at the fast I helped set up camp. We're fasting in snow. It’s really cold weather. I went on about my business of building the fires for sweat lodge and praying for others. When the fast completed we all shared a meal. Afterwards I left to drive home back through Idaho to Granite Falls, Washington. About halfway between Alberta and the British Columbia-Idaho border I remembered the pink flamingos.
As I got close to the store, I decided to stop even though I didn't have any money. I parked and went inside. There was a really big guy who looked like a cross between Santa Claus and Burl Ives who welcomed me to the store. I started looking around at all the stuff. It was a thrift store with lots of this and that’s collected from garage sales. It really didn't find anything that interested me, and I decided since I didn't have any money I wouldn't get anything. Getting money for whenever required me to find a pay phone and activate my credit card. As I was walking out the door of the thrift store this big jolly man sitting on a stool behind the counter spoke up.
“What is it you're looking for?” he asked. “I bet I have it.” I told him I'd just come from a fast, and he asked what tribe.
“The Blackfoot or blood tribe,” I replied.
“I have some stuff behind a counter for you behind this, this wall,” he said. “Here, let me get it for you. You might be interested.”
He brought out a Sundance medallion, a Buffalo horn carved into a polished Eagle head, a drum, and a small book written in 1905 called The Gospel of the Red Man. I look at the items and decided I would buy the Sundance medallion, the buffalo born, and the book. Asked him if I could use his phone, and he said he didn't have one. Then I asked where the nearest phone was so I could activate my credit card and pay for the bill.
“Next door to the gas station.”
OK. I went next door and called the 800 number only to find out the 800 number is good in the United States but not in Canada. I ended up talking to a hotel as the wrong number. I called the bank and they said the only way to activate the card is to call the 800 number, and I would have to be in the United States to do that. So I drove 50 miles to the border and went through and cleared US customs. Used their pay phone to activate my credit card and then do a U-turn arriving back at Canadian Customs.
The Border Customs people looked perplexed as to why I done this. When I explained to them I wanted to purchase some items at a local store in Canada but could not use my credit card unless it was activated back in the States. They decided to search my vehicle, which took about 45 minutes, and then let me go. I drove back to the store and purchased the items. I then drew back across the US Customs into northern Idaho. Later in the summer at my first Sundance I used the medallion to protect me from harm as I danced, I stored the horn until I received the rights to pour sweat lodge. Pouring a sweat lodge is slang for the one of the job descriptions of a sweat lodge leader. Pouring water refers to pouring water on the rocks to create steam. I never read the little book. It still sits on my bookshelf.
Second Trip:
Ron Thomas, a friend who supported me during many of my fasts in Alberta drove his truck and trailer up one year so we would have a place to sleep. I thought this was very kind of him. On the way up Highway 95 through northern Idaho's Upper Panhandle I noticed an auto parts store. I had no idea why I look at an auto parts store and why would jump out at me like that. Ron and I crossed the border into Canada and drove to Alberta to the Blood Reserve.
I completed my fast once again, four days with no food or water and five sweat lodges. Sunday morning as we're wrapping up the fast Ron packed up the trailer with all our personal belongings. He strapped the plastic chair to the tongue of the trailer, and off we drove back to Marysville, Washington. As soon as we got on the highway I heard a funny noise.
“ Ron,” I said. “I think I hear a wheel bearing going out. We should stop and check.”
“No, we do not have any wheel bearings going out,” he said. “Everything is fine. That noise is just the wind blowing over the plastic chair.”
We drove for a couple of hours through places with names like Pincher Creek and Crow’s Nest Pass. Finally, we stopped an A&W Root Beer restaurant and gas station to get some food. Once again I mentioned to Ron about the sound that I thought was a wheel bearing going out. I even rolled down the window of his SUV when we were driving away from the A&W so he could hear the noise I was hearing.
“It’s just a plastic chair,” Ron said. “Let it go!”
I felt frustrated he was blowing me off. I felt confident it was the wheel bearing making the noise. We arrived at Kingsgate on the British Columbia-Idaho border crossing, cleared customs, and as we drove off right away Ron panicked.
“What’s that noise?” he said freaking out.
“That noise I've been telling you about, Ron, since we left the Sundance grounds.”
We pulled over. Ron noticed the driver's side wheel on the trailer was smoking and bent at an angle. He started to panic again.
“ I can't leave my trailer here,” he said. “Someone will steal it!”
“Well,” I said. “On the way up to the fast I noticed an auto parts store. Maybe they have the parts for your trailer.”
“This trailer's old,” Ron said with a snort. “Nobody has the parts. We’re going to have to leave it here and hope nobody steals it.”
I convinced him we should at least give it a try. We took the wheel bearings off the bad side of the trailer and drove an hour to the parts store. Turns out we just barely made it as they were closing down in 15 minutes. There was an old man at the counter. When Ron told him what he needed the guy behind the counter asked to see the wheel bearings. He got out his micrometer and measured the wheel bearings, smiled, and told us he will be back in a minute. He came back with six boxes and a tub of grease. He told us they may not be the right part number but they are the right bearing. Ron was in disbelief. I laughed at the synchronicity.
As we drove back Ron was convinced the entire time these bearings would not work. We took the trailer apart completely and installed the new bearings and races. Everything fit perfectly. Ron was shocked but tried to play cool like he always thought everything would work out all along. I started to pay attention more when I noticed people, buildings, or events and what could possibly really be going on in the world. I felt everything is connected.
Third Trip:
It's October 2004, and I was up early by myself for the fall fast. When I arrived the temperature is minus 50 and there’s two feet of snow on the ground. I had several things to accomplish on this trip. One was to meet with Joe Eagle-tail-feather and talk to him about studying under him as a medicine man. The other was to prepare for Sundance. Said I was driving my 4x4 truck and went out playing in the snow. As I drove around I saw three eagles sitting on a fence post talking to each other. I thought this was a little odd but didn't make anything out of it.
I then met with Case, my Sundance leader, to talk to him out of respect for his guidance and how to best approach Joe. He gave me his support, and I went to a sweat the next day to talk with Joe. It was minus 35 that day, we prepared the fire, and Joe called us to get into the sweat lodge. So I put my bathing suit on and without wearing anything else ran through the snow to the sweat lodge. I jumped into the sweat lodge only to see everyone else wearing snowmobile outfits, large down-filled suits, and jumpsuits to keep warm with only five rocks in the lodge. I sat there, and after a few minutes Joe told me I could go get my clothes on if I wanted. I told them by the time I got back to the truck and got my clothes on I would be frozen.
They laughed, and we continued on with the ceremony. I offer Joe a blanket, a warm coat, some tobacco, and ask him if he would teach me. He said he would ask the Spirits. Whatever answer they gave him he would tell me, and he would follow their direction. After the sweat was over, Joe came to me and said the Spirits told him he was to teach me. During the sweat he had a vision of a man wearing a buffalo robe and a buffalo fur hat with his arms spread wide open in a Jesus Christ pose. This man was praying.
I asked the spirits what Joe was praying for, and they said food for his community. These same spirits then told me I was not to purchase meat or hunt any longer. At this time in my life I ate a huge amount of protein and was lifting weights. I felt terrified at the thought of not purchasing meat. How would I survive?
The spirits heard this and responded by telling me to trust my community to take care of me. I left and drove over to the Sundance grounds about 10 miles away. I completed my fast knowing I would be moving up to Alberta the following June. Keith was kind enough to give me a letter of invitation to live on the Blood Reserve, and I was offered free housing. Housing on the reserve, unless it’s new, often needs a complete remodel. Such renovations include countertops, carpets, windows, fixtures, and doors. I spent the next seven months collecting all the stuff I needed to remodel the house I was moving. Got much of it off Craigslist. I also worked with Canadian immigration to make sure I had all my ducks in a row so I could get across the border and live in Canada for two years.
Fourth Trip:
When everything was set, I closed my business and got rid of my house. I loaded up a trailer and truck with bunch of my belongings and left for the big move to Canada on June 25. Once again I was driving up Highway 95 in the northern panhandle of Idaho. This time with Deanne a dear friend of mine who had traveled with me to Sundance the previous year.
We got to the British Columbia US border crossing and after talking with immigration and the border patrol for several hours I was told the immigration officer I had been working with was new. He’d made a mistake. I would now need $70,000 or a house in the United States to show that I was going to leave Canada in two years. Didn’t I just get rid of my house? Paid off all my bills with the money I had? So I could live with no overhead on the reserve?
Canadian Customs told me to turn around and go back into the United States and that I wouldn't be allowed into Canada. I was shocked but not as shocked as my friend Deanne. I suggest we drive back to the nearest town, get some food, and figure out a new plan.
There was a restaurant at the corner of Highway 2 and Highway 95.We stopped there and while eating breakfast I noticed a big, blue diesel repair shop across the street. It jumped out at me as if everything else around it was in a fog. I just thought to myself hmmmm… and suggested to Deanne let's drive around town and see what we can come up with. We spent the day hanging out in Bonners Ferry, Idaho. Three PM rolled around, and I still could not come up with a phone number or any plan for the border crossing. To get some kind of help, any help I drive to the blue building with the diesel shop I had noticed earlier at breakfast. I went in and the gentleman who owns the shop asked how he could help me. I told him my story of the border crossing.
“Well,” he said, “What do you need from me?”
“Just a phone number for the border crossing at Kingsgate,” I replied.
“Well, if you want to get across the border I have a buddy who is retired Border Patrol and he can show you a back road to get across.”
“No,” I said in wonder. “I’ll do this legally but thanks. I just need a phone number.”
So I got the phone number from him and called Canada Customs. They told me I could get across the border if I left everything in the US and pay them a $1000 bond. When I got off the phone the gentleman from the shop asked me again what I needed. I told him I needed a place to store all my stuff while I’m in Alberta Sundancing. He told me bring back the trailer around back. He'd store everything for me till I came back for free. He'd even cover it with a tarp to protect it from the rain. I felt shocked and grateful at the same time that somebody's generosity would allow me to continue my journey.
We unloaded everything and headed for the border. We needed to be there before 5 p.m. and we had an hour’s drive so not much time. When we got to the border I was told I didn't need to pay the thousand dollars and to proceed on to my ceremony. I completed my first year of Sundance that year in 2004. When the dance was over Deanne and I drove back to the diesel shop in northern Idaho. All of my stuff was still there. The man asked what I was going to do with all my stuff.
“I don't know,” I said. “I'm not moving to Alberta.”
“Well,” he said, “there were some people with kids who lived out the backwoods who would appreciate some of that stuff.”
I told him he could take everything he wanted. On the way home once Deanne and I got on I-90 heading west toward Seattle we started talking about why I didn't go to the blue building right after I noticed it. How odd it was we couldn't get help from anyone we asked in Bonners Ferry except the old guy in the blue building.
The fastest route to Alberta is Highway 95. I have traveled this road many times and these are a few of the experiences I have had along the way.
First Trip:
In April of 2002 I was traveling north on Highway 95 through the Upper Panhandle of Idaho toward Canada. After I crossed the border into British Columbia on my way to Alberta and drove about 20 km, I noticed on the left-hand side of the road across from a truck stop a bunch of pink flamingos. They were the grassy green type of pink flamingo, the kind you stick in your lawn, not the live Florida types. That was odd and even weirder how my neck snapped around like an owl to notice these pink flamingos and this little tiny store. I was on my way to the Blood Reserve of southern Alberta for a ceremony with the Blackfoot Tribe. “Reserves” are the Canadian equivalent of US Native American reservations.
My first fast was coming up. It’s a four-day ceremony of no water or food with five sweat lodges in preparation to Sundance the following summer. I then spent another seven hours driving from the little pink flamingo store wondering why it just jumped out at me. Once I arrived at the fast I helped set up camp. We're fasting in snow. It’s really cold weather. I went on about my business of building the fires for sweat lodge and praying for others. When the fast completed we all shared a meal. Afterwards I left to drive home back through Idaho to Granite Falls, Washington. About halfway between Alberta and the British Columbia-Idaho border I remembered the pink flamingos.
As I got close to the store, I decided to stop even though I didn't have any money. I parked and went inside. There was a really big guy who looked like a cross between Santa Claus and Burl Ives who welcomed me to the store. I started looking around at all the stuff. It was a thrift store with lots of this and that’s collected from garage sales. It really didn't find anything that interested me, and I decided since I didn't have any money I wouldn't get anything. Getting money for whenever required me to find a pay phone and activate my credit card. As I was walking out the door of the thrift store this big jolly man sitting on a stool behind the counter spoke up.
“What is it you're looking for?” he asked. “I bet I have it.” I told him I'd just come from a fast, and he asked what tribe.
“The Blackfoot or blood tribe,” I replied.
“I have some stuff behind a counter for you behind this, this wall,” he said. “Here, let me get it for you. You might be interested.”
He brought out a Sundance medallion, a Buffalo horn carved into a polished Eagle head, a drum, and a small book written in 1905 called The Gospel of the Red Man. I look at the items and decided I would buy the Sundance medallion, the buffalo born, and the book. Asked him if I could use his phone, and he said he didn't have one. Then I asked where the nearest phone was so I could activate my credit card and pay for the bill.
“Next door to the gas station.”
OK. I went next door and called the 800 number only to find out the 800 number is good in the United States but not in Canada. I ended up talking to a hotel as the wrong number. I called the bank and they said the only way to activate the card is to call the 800 number, and I would have to be in the United States to do that. So I drove 50 miles to the border and went through and cleared US customs. Used their pay phone to activate my credit card and then do a U-turn arriving back at Canadian Customs.
The Border Customs people looked perplexed as to why I done this. When I explained to them I wanted to purchase some items at a local store in Canada but could not use my credit card unless it was activated back in the States. They decided to search my vehicle, which took about 45 minutes, and then let me go. I drove back to the store and purchased the items. I then drew back across the US Customs into northern Idaho. Later in the summer at my first Sundance I used the medallion to protect me from harm as I danced, I stored the horn until I received the rights to pour sweat lodge. Pouring a sweat lodge is slang for the one of the job descriptions of a sweat lodge leader. Pouring water refers to pouring water on the rocks to create steam. I never read the little book. It still sits on my bookshelf.
Second Trip:
Ron Thomas, a friend who supported me during many of my fasts in Alberta drove his truck and trailer up one year so we would have a place to sleep. I thought this was very kind of him. On the way up Highway 95 through northern Idaho's Upper Panhandle I noticed an auto parts store. I had no idea why I look at an auto parts store and why would jump out at me like that. Ron and I crossed the border into Canada and drove to Alberta to the Blood Reserve.
I completed my fast once again, four days with no food or water and five sweat lodges. Sunday morning as we're wrapping up the fast Ron packed up the trailer with all our personal belongings. He strapped the plastic chair to the tongue of the trailer, and off we drove back to Marysville, Washington. As soon as we got on the highway I heard a funny noise.
“ Ron,” I said. “I think I hear a wheel bearing going out. We should stop and check.”
“No, we do not have any wheel bearings going out,” he said. “Everything is fine. That noise is just the wind blowing over the plastic chair.”
We drove for a couple of hours through places with names like Pincher Creek and Crow’s Nest Pass. Finally, we stopped an A&W Root Beer restaurant and gas station to get some food. Once again I mentioned to Ron about the sound that I thought was a wheel bearing going out. I even rolled down the window of his SUV when we were driving away from the A&W so he could hear the noise I was hearing.
“It’s just a plastic chair,” Ron said. “Let it go!”
I felt frustrated he was blowing me off. I felt confident it was the wheel bearing making the noise. We arrived at Kingsgate on the British Columbia-Idaho border crossing, cleared customs, and as we drove off right away Ron panicked.
“What’s that noise?” he said freaking out.
“That noise I've been telling you about, Ron, since we left the Sundance grounds.”
We pulled over. Ron noticed the driver's side wheel on the trailer was smoking and bent at an angle. He started to panic again.
“ I can't leave my trailer here,” he said. “Someone will steal it!”
“Well,” I said. “On the way up to the fast I noticed an auto parts store. Maybe they have the parts for your trailer.”
“This trailer's old,” Ron said with a snort. “Nobody has the parts. We’re going to have to leave it here and hope nobody steals it.”
I convinced him we should at least give it a try. We took the wheel bearings off the bad side of the trailer and drove an hour to the parts store. Turns out we just barely made it as they were closing down in 15 minutes. There was an old man at the counter. When Ron told him what he needed the guy behind the counter asked to see the wheel bearings. He got out his micrometer and measured the wheel bearings, smiled, and told us he will be back in a minute. He came back with six boxes and a tub of grease. He told us they may not be the right part number but they are the right bearing. Ron was in disbelief. I laughed at the synchronicity.
As we drove back Ron was convinced the entire time these bearings would not work. We took the trailer apart completely and installed the new bearings and races. Everything fit perfectly. Ron was shocked but tried to play cool like he always thought everything would work out all along. I started to pay attention more when I noticed people, buildings, or events and what could possibly really be going on in the world. I felt everything is connected.
Third Trip:
It's October 2004, and I was up early by myself for the fall fast. When I arrived the temperature is minus 50 and there’s two feet of snow on the ground. I had several things to accomplish on this trip. One was to meet with Joe Eagle-tail-feather and talk to him about studying under him as a medicine man. The other was to prepare for Sundance. Said I was driving my 4x4 truck and went out playing in the snow. As I drove around I saw three eagles sitting on a fence post talking to each other. I thought this was a little odd but didn't make anything out of it.
I then met with Case, my Sundance leader, to talk to him out of respect for his guidance and how to best approach Joe. He gave me his support, and I went to a sweat the next day to talk with Joe. It was minus 35 that day, we prepared the fire, and Joe called us to get into the sweat lodge. So I put my bathing suit on and without wearing anything else ran through the snow to the sweat lodge. I jumped into the sweat lodge only to see everyone else wearing snowmobile outfits, large down-filled suits, and jumpsuits to keep warm with only five rocks in the lodge. I sat there, and after a few minutes Joe told me I could go get my clothes on if I wanted. I told them by the time I got back to the truck and got my clothes on I would be frozen.
They laughed, and we continued on with the ceremony. I offer Joe a blanket, a warm coat, some tobacco, and ask him if he would teach me. He said he would ask the Spirits. Whatever answer they gave him he would tell me, and he would follow their direction. After the sweat was over, Joe came to me and said the Spirits told him he was to teach me. During the sweat he had a vision of a man wearing a buffalo robe and a buffalo fur hat with his arms spread wide open in a Jesus Christ pose. This man was praying.
I asked the spirits what Joe was praying for, and they said food for his community. These same spirits then told me I was not to purchase meat or hunt any longer. At this time in my life I ate a huge amount of protein and was lifting weights. I felt terrified at the thought of not purchasing meat. How would I survive?
The spirits heard this and responded by telling me to trust my community to take care of me. I left and drove over to the Sundance grounds about 10 miles away. I completed my fast knowing I would be moving up to Alberta the following June. Keith was kind enough to give me a letter of invitation to live on the Blood Reserve, and I was offered free housing. Housing on the reserve, unless it’s new, often needs a complete remodel. Such renovations include countertops, carpets, windows, fixtures, and doors. I spent the next seven months collecting all the stuff I needed to remodel the house I was moving. Got much of it off Craigslist. I also worked with Canadian immigration to make sure I had all my ducks in a row so I could get across the border and live in Canada for two years.
Fourth Trip:
When everything was set, I closed my business and got rid of my house. I loaded up a trailer and truck with bunch of my belongings and left for the big move to Canada on June 25. Once again I was driving up Highway 95 in the northern panhandle of Idaho. This time with Deanne a dear friend of mine who had traveled with me to Sundance the previous year.
We got to the British Columbia US border crossing and after talking with immigration and the border patrol for several hours I was told the immigration officer I had been working with was new. He’d made a mistake. I would now need $70,000 or a house in the United States to show that I was going to leave Canada in two years. Didn’t I just get rid of my house? Paid off all my bills with the money I had? So I could live with no overhead on the reserve?
Canadian Customs told me to turn around and go back into the United States and that I wouldn't be allowed into Canada. I was shocked but not as shocked as my friend Deanne. I suggest we drive back to the nearest town, get some food, and figure out a new plan.
There was a restaurant at the corner of Highway 2 and Highway 95.We stopped there and while eating breakfast I noticed a big, blue diesel repair shop across the street. It jumped out at me as if everything else around it was in a fog. I just thought to myself hmmmm… and suggested to Deanne let's drive around town and see what we can come up with. We spent the day hanging out in Bonners Ferry, Idaho. Three PM rolled around, and I still could not come up with a phone number or any plan for the border crossing. To get some kind of help, any help I drive to the blue building with the diesel shop I had noticed earlier at breakfast. I went in and the gentleman who owns the shop asked how he could help me. I told him my story of the border crossing.
“Well,” he said, “What do you need from me?”
“Just a phone number for the border crossing at Kingsgate,” I replied.
“Well, if you want to get across the border I have a buddy who is retired Border Patrol and he can show you a back road to get across.”
“No,” I said in wonder. “I’ll do this legally but thanks. I just need a phone number.”
So I got the phone number from him and called Canada Customs. They told me I could get across the border if I left everything in the US and pay them a $1000 bond. When I got off the phone the gentleman from the shop asked me again what I needed. I told him I needed a place to store all my stuff while I’m in Alberta Sundancing. He told me bring back the trailer around back. He'd store everything for me till I came back for free. He'd even cover it with a tarp to protect it from the rain. I felt shocked and grateful at the same time that somebody's generosity would allow me to continue my journey.
We unloaded everything and headed for the border. We needed to be there before 5 p.m. and we had an hour’s drive so not much time. When we got to the border I was told I didn't need to pay the thousand dollars and to proceed on to my ceremony. I completed my first year of Sundance that year in 2004. When the dance was over Deanne and I drove back to the diesel shop in northern Idaho. All of my stuff was still there. The man asked what I was going to do with all my stuff.
“I don't know,” I said. “I'm not moving to Alberta.”
“Well,” he said, “there were some people with kids who lived out the backwoods who would appreciate some of that stuff.”
I told him he could take everything he wanted. On the way home once Deanne and I got on I-90 heading west toward Seattle we started talking about why I didn't go to the blue building right after I noticed it. How odd it was we couldn't get help from anyone we asked in Bonners Ferry except the old guy in the blue building.




